Longines’ Quiet Revolution: Unlocking the Secrets Behind Its Success with New CEO Patrick Aoun
Imagine sitting down with someone whose passion for their work is palpable, infectious even. That’s exactly what happened when Longines invited me to meet their new CEO, Patrick Aoun, amidst the launch of their captivating Spirit collection. I felt a buzz of anticipation, a sense that this wasn’t just another interview, but a glimpse into a brand’s evolving story. Little did I know, Patrick’s 18-year journey with Longines would completely reframe my understanding of this iconic watchmaker.
Our meeting took place in the breathtaking new Longines boutique on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse, housed within a stunning 19th-century building. The space is a masterpiece in itself, showcasing watches in an inviting, tactile way, with a serene living garden at its heart, offering a peaceful escape from the bustling city. This isn’t just any boutique; it’s one of Longines’ largest globally, a testament to the brand’s quiet yet powerful resurgence.
The Three Pillars of Longines: A Legacy of Innovation
Patrick didn’t waste time diving into what makes Longines truly special. He outlined three core pillars: professional timekeeping, precision instruments for pilots and explorers, and timeless elegance. But here’s the fascinating part: these pillars aren’t isolated. The expertise honed in professional timekeeping and aviation instruments directly fueled groundbreaking advancements in watchmaking.
Take the rotating bezel, for instance. Most assume it originated with dive watches, but it was actually born from Longines’ collaboration with legendary pilot Phillip Weems, a testament to the brand’s pioneering spirit. Then there’s the flyback chronograph, invented in 1930 and patented in 1935. 1936 saw the launch of the iconic 13 ZN movement, a game-changer for pilots navigating vast oceans without GPS. Patrick vividly illustrated the gravity of this innovation: a miscalculation of mere seconds could mean the difference between a safe landing and disaster. This wasn’t just about convenience; it was a matter of life and death.
The Spirit of Evolution: Bridging Worlds
The Spirit Pilot Flyback Patrick wore perfectly embodies Longines’ trajectory. At a sleek 39.5mm with a mere 13.4mm thickness, it houses an exclusive, chronometer-certified movement, water-resistant to 100 meters, and boasts magnetic resistance ten times the ISO standard. Its transparent case back reveals the intricate column-wheel chronograph, while its proportions strike a perfect balance between comfort, wearability, and refinement.
The Spirit collection achieves something remarkable: it unites seemingly disparate worlds. Our Creative Director, Marcus Flack, had previously struggled to find a unifying thread within Longines’ diverse collections. Tool watches devoid of luxury elements sat alongside elegant dress pieces. But the Spirit bridges this gap, seamlessly blending the robustness and storytelling of a true tool watch with the finishing, proportions, and attention to detail expected of a luxury timepiece.
The “Sweet Spot” Strategy: Accessible Excellence
When I asked Patrick about Longines’ position within the Swatch Group hierarchy, nestled between Omega and Tissot, his response was refreshingly candid. It’s not about competition, he explained, but about finding synergy and complementarity. His mission is clear: dominate their unique lane.
Longines occupies what Patrick calls a “sweet spot,” offering unparalleled value for money with guaranteed quality and top-tier movements at an unbeatable price point. A basic Spirit Pilot three-hand watch retails for under CHF 2,500, a testament to accessible luxury done right. The strategy is ingenious: introduce customers to the brand through an entry-level piece, let them experience the robustness and durability, and over time, they’ll naturally gravitate towards more complex models like the flyback chronograph or the 5 Hz Ultra-Chron, priced above CHF 4,000.
Controversial Question: To Revive or Not to Revive?
One of the most intriguing moments came when I inquired about the legendary 13 ZN movement, a chronograph calibre rivaling the Zenith El Primero in horological significance. Why hasn’t Longines revived this iconic movement, as Omega did with the calibre 321 for a premium Speedmaster variant? Wouldn’t this be a logical step towards a higher price tier and an even more exclusive range?
Patrick’s response was revealing. He’s not driven by the pursuit of higher margins. For him, luxury isn’t defined by a price tag but by the experience it offers. Why deny the average consumer access to the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking just to chase premium pricing? His humility was striking, a testament to a brand that prioritizes accessibility and inclusivity.
Looking Ahead: A Future Rooted in Heritage
Patrick outlined a clear vision for Longines’ future. Respecting their rich heritage is non-negotiable. The brand is moving towards slimmer, better-proportioned watches, phasing out oversized, bulky designs. The Spirit collection is just the beginning. All movements in their automatic sports collections – Ultra-Chron, Flyback, Pilot, Zulu Time – are Longines-exclusive, crafted by ETA with cutting-edge technology reserved solely for Longines. This is a privilege of being part of the Swatch Group, and Patrick intends to fully leverage it.
When asked about an underappreciated reference, Patrick didn’t hesitate: the Ultra-Chron. With its five-hertz movement, cushion case, and authentic vintage design language, it’s a collector’s dream waiting to be discovered. As our conversation drew to a close, surrounded by meticulously restored vintage Longines pieces (now available as certified pre-owned), I felt a sense of relief. Finally, a CEO who grasps both the technical prowess and emotional depth of this brand, committed to honoring its past while propelling it into the future. Longines has always been on my radar, but after this conversation, it’s firmly in my crosshairs.
Food for Thought:
Does Longines’ focus on accessibility and value for money compromise its potential for exclusivity and prestige? Or is this democratization of luxury a refreshing approach in an industry often criticized for elitism? Share your thoughts in the comments below – let’s spark a conversation!